In 2021 I moved to Germany to intern for Leon Emanuel Blanck, a designer specializing in a unique form of pattern making - Anfractuous Distortion. In his methodology, darts and seams are developed according to the natural shape and movement on the body, asymmetrical and organic. This allows for garments that are highly structured, but forgiving at points of pivot. This connection between garment and body is carried through to the studio and production processes as well, which are done primarily by hand inside the Berlin atelier.
Following my internship I stayed on in the studio as part of the team, taking on a role that included design, production cutting/sewing, sample construction, and pattern making.
Shown is a selection of highlights from my time at the brand.
Overcoat | DIS-M-OVERC/01
Created as an iteration on the brand’s Officer’s Coat pattern. Arms and body are sized up and redesigned to allow layering on top of another lighter jacket. Collar and placket swoops over the front and fastens via Cobra snaps. Lines created using the label’s asymmetrical pattern making process line up across the center front when the jacket is closed.
Draped and fitted on a live model, patterned by hand.
Latex Coated Seams
To allow the Studio’s seamwork to be applied to a loose gauge knit, latex was applied to reversed seams. This allows the garments to be sewn with a standard machine without unravelling, while highlighting the piece’s construction.
3/5 Pocket Card Holders | DIS-3PCH/5PCH
Card holders designed to reflect the asymmetry of the label’s designs. Front of wallet is curved so that the cards fan out for easier access, as well as better fit the curve of a pocket. A coin pocket is created on the back, with the label’s signature seamwork running through the opening.
Sewing Samples
Much of my time at Leon’s included the actual making of garments - both samples and finished production pieces for stores. As most of the garments are produced in house, nearly everyone on the team has a hand in production at some point. For me, this consisted of jersey t-shirts, wool and duck down coats, jackets of various compositions, trousers, and others. I would often be responsible for every step of the production process from cutting to finishing.
